This letter is meant to inform the customer of conditions and procedures used in tile setting and flooring installation. Every job is different, these are general procedures only.
Hardy board should be installed over an existing wood floor before tile installation. If the existing subfloor is not level the craftsman can float the floor with thin set using a notch trowel to make the top of the tiles line up. This procedure will allow the craftsman to line up the top of the tile if the difference is less than ¼” over the length of 24”. (For 12” tile). If the floor is more than ¼” out of level the tile may not line up.
Stone tiles are not the same thickness and will scratch easier than ceramic tile. The craftsman can usually make the top of the tiles line up on the floor by using a ½ “notch trowel to put more mud on the floor. When using stone on the wall the customer should expect the surface to be a little uneven if the tiles are an irregular thickness. All types of tiles may be an irregular size. The procedure for setting tile is to line up one side of the tile to give an overall look of a strait joint.
If the subfloor is not level installing tile will make the problem more noticeable. The entire floor can be leveled for an additional charge but this can be expensive. When installing a broken joint pattern the floor must be within 1/8”
When installing wall tile on a 45 degree pattern the tile must be within 1/32” of regular or
the joint may not line up at the corners. When wrapping wall tile on a 45 around 4 walls one
corner will not match. Using a smaller joint will make the irregular tiles more noticeable.
A sanded thin set should be used on floor tile and non-sanded thin set should be used on wall
tile less than 8”. A gray thin set should be used with a black grout and white thin set should be
used with a lite grout. A non-sanded grout must be used on joints less than 1/8” and a sanded grout must be used on joints larger than 1/8”
Mosaic tile often will not be glued together evenly. The procedure for setting mosaic tile is to line up one side as close as possible (some of the small tiles may not line up perfectly) once the tiles are grouted the overall job will be professionally completed.
The customer will provide the material for their job. We will guarantee the work will be completed in a professional way but we cannot guarantee the material. Wood or laminate floor material should be of a quality that will lock together without separating. We will install the flooring in a professional manor but substandard material may affect the overall look of the job. . …. Floating wood or laminate flooring may separate before the ¼ round or base boards are installed (we can tap the flooring back together). When installing a glue down wood flooring the sub-floor must be flat within 1/8 “ in 6’.The craftsman will have to walk the floor to ensure the glue sticks to both surfaces. We recommend the customer stays off of the new flooring until the glue is dry or the trim is installed. Temperature and humidity can affect flooring planks. Acclimate the flooring in the house for 48 hours before installation. Stack the laminate flooring being used flat on the floor. Have about 5 to 10 percent more flooring than the square feet of area of the room since you'll waste just a little when cutting some pieces.
We will clean the subfloor to make sure it's free of any dirt and debris. If installing on top of a new concrete floor wait until the floor is fully cured. We start by laying out the vapor barrier one row at a time. On door openings we will lay a piece of flooring flat on the subfloor up against the door jambs. To use it as a guide to mark the jambs so that the new flooring can slide underneath the jamb. We use a “flat” saw to cut the jambs. This will give the floor and jamb a nice finished look without having to remove the entire jamb. We will usually lay the planks parallel to the longest wall. We install the first plank with the groove toward the wall. We will leave a gap of 3/8”this gap will be covered later with base molding. The gap will allow the flooring to expand. For each plank, we will match the tongue to
groove and tap it into place using a scrap piece of flooring to protect the planks. While installing
subsequent rows, we stagger the joints of the flooring. When starting a new row, we offset it six
to eight inches so the joints at the ends of planks are not lined up row to row (which can weaken
the floor and create a too-uniform look). The last plank will need to be trimmed to fit. We mark
the plank to the correct width and draw a line along the plank Rip cut the plank along this line and
install. We will install any thresholds at the doors where the flooring ends. The last step is to install base molding to cover the expansion gap and clean the job site.
If you are quoted a price for a job the price doesn’t include any extra work such as installing a different type of tile or flooring, decorative tile, any pattern other than a strait joint pattern, moving furniture, installing hardy board, removing
existing flooring or tile, installing ¼ round, or floor leveling, Unless otherwise noted. If the customer wants to change the job after we give a price we are glade to help but the overall job may be more expensive.